Having been set up by two native Southern Italians last summer, Bath’s newest pizzeria promises to deliver a truly authentic slice. More than this, Dough’s mission is to challenge common pizza conceptions; whilst there are numerous debates over toppings, how often do you find yourself questioning the base of your pizza?
And that is exactly what you will find yourself doing as soon as you’ve sat down at Dough. Expressing their aim through the catchy phrase; It’s all about the base, it is unsurprising that as soon as you open your menu you are faced with no less than seven different pizza doughs to choose from.
These doughs range from a simple multigrain base, right through a Turmeric infused dough and even a ‘Grano Arso’ or ‘burnt grain.’ Although rather crude sounding, the latter actually has origins stemming from rural poverty that was rife in 19th century Italy where the peasants – too poor to afford flour – used to sweep up and use the grains burnt from the harvesting machines.
Dough’s waiting team we’re polite helpful and incredible knowledgeable. Ours was all to keen to offer insight and guidance to which pizza to pair with which dough and with as much adeptness as your high-end someiller!
To view Dough’s menu in full, please click here: http://doughpizzarestaurant.co.uk/menu/
The overall effect of Emiliano Tunno and Massimo Nucaro’s brainchild is excitement. As soon as you walk into Dough you are instantaneously delighted. Welcomed by the almost theatrical nature of the open kitchen, the light, simple and smart decor that comes equipped with subtle nods towards its Italian parentage via cool monochromatic photographs offers a point of direct refreshment to Bath’s quintessentially Georgian surroundings. Especially being sandwiched between the famous Corridor in Bath and the historic Northumberland Place.
The restaurant itself is spacious without feeling too intimate. Bare bulb pendant light fittings, simple wooden tables, exposed piping, an open pizza kitchen and a metallic-charcoal wall that is emblazoned with a large brass ‘Dough,’ all combine to create a clever atmosphere that is an astute crossover of authentic rustic Italian and modern cosmopolitan eating.
Emiliano comfortably takes centre stage in the kitchen and there is no missing him; he’s the one twirling and spinning pizza dough in mesmerising shapes several feet above himself in the open kitchen! And that seems a perfect metaphor for Dough which, for me, is marking a brave new spin on one of the world’s favourite dishes.
When my ‘Smokey’ pizza arrived – tomato sauce, mozzarella, speck (smoked prosciutto), smoked mozzarella and rosemary – it looked quite simply perfect.
The sparing use of ingredients let the rich tomato sauce sing through under delicately sliced and appetisingly pinked speck – not done any justice in my above photo! Just as well as Massimo takes great pride and time in selecting all of Dough’s produce – the most of which comes straight from the pairs’ hometowns in Southern Italy.
The overall flavour was one of oak, earth and fire. The Rosemary served as a clever fresh twist at the end. The Grano Arso base which was grey in appearance really heightened the whole experience. Crisp, bubbly and slightly chewy it was all you want from a base. Its taste was subtly bitter which made it the perfect vehicle for the toppings.
I can, in all honesty, say – bar my recent trip to Venice – that it was one of the best pizzas I’ve had in a while! It was light and scant of any overwhelming oily or greasy nature. Afterwards, you didn’t feel stodgy or over indulged, you felt satisfied and content.
I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Dough and taste of Emiliano Tunno and Massimo Nucaro’s one of a kind pizzas. They really are true pioneers who are carving themselves out their very own niche in the world of pizza – a world which up until very recently I believed to be crowded, saturated and overdone. Its so wonderfully refreshing to see Dough thinking and cooking in new and exciting ways.
My one suggestion – Dough, if you’re reading this – would be to introduce a starter where you can sample all the doughs before you order; perhaps a ‘Dough’s ball dish‘ with a garlic dipping sauce.
Having said that, without such, I’ll defiantly be returning at least six times to try the rest!
A little Tasty 