There’s a strange sort of magic that hangs over Combe Grove Manor. Winding your way down the lengthy drive under a leafy canopy, you cannot help but feel a strong sense of nostalgia, especially when greeted by a moss-shrouded arch that looks as if it’s wandered straight out of Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty.
Located at the top of the charmingly named Brassknocker Hill, Combe Grove sits just south of Bath. Once standing as a magnificent eighteenth-century estate, the now spa, bucolic country-house hotel and acclaimed restaurant in its own right is certainly easy on the eye. Sheltered in 70-acres of garden woodland you can’t help but find yourself completely and utterly entranced in an organic natural calm. Gazing out over the valleys below and across to Westbury’s iconic White Horse, if you’re looking for somewhere to unwind look no further.
Inside the impressive Georgian manor house, its 200 year’s of history are celebrated indirectly through a bright, bold interior festooned with endearing eccentricities and adorned with standout artworks and sculptures.
The bar, pointedly lying at the centre of the hotel, follows much of the same lead: a brass finished bar top, slender bar stools, large intricate mirrors, gold detailed wallpaper and a parrot propped up against one of the two large bay windows. In a similar way, the restaurant is full of life. A vaulted ceiling is proclaimed by an almost celestial woodland mural, which much reflects the surroundings and, of course, is painted by a local artist. (Ryan John Wilson).
The feeling you get is heady, as though you’ve stepped into a Klimt gilt framed snapshot of a Gatsbyesque past – although one where you are spared all the “spurious pomp and circumstance” as the staff are both helpful and personable in unstuffy smart jeans. The result? An exciting air that allows you a sense of pure escapism that verges on childlike delight.
With big comfortable beds, bold headboards, dark wooden furniture and an attractively tiled bathroom, the comparatively modern Garden Rooms provide another point of refreshment. Each comes with either a terrace or balcony that is perfectly positioned to allow guests to take in the panoramic views. (Rooms in the main house are also available.
In the kitchens, Leigh Evans of Chequers fame is in control. To say he was doing a spectacular job would be to cut it short. Coming from one of Bath’s most loved and respected gastropubs, it’s an utter delight to experience his ever-evolving style and to see, through his plated, how he has matured under wider creative freedoms. Combe Grove has to be commended for their ever-changing seasonal menu which champions local ingredients and producers.
To start with, I had a wasabi and cured tuna tartar that was served with a watermelon, pickled cucumber and radish salad. The combination was dramatic; the tuna was melt-in-the-mouth and bounced off the refreshing and zingy notes that the pickles provided. The wasabi – although delicate – added deep earthy undertones and an overall warmness to the dish.
To follow, I opted for the venison haunch. Coming perfectly medium-rare, as recommended by Leigh himself, this was truly delicious: rich and full of flavour, whilst retaining that beautiful musky and very slightly sharp flavour that gives venison its distinctive gamey flavour. Accompanying dauphinoise were just as impressive. Rather than being somewhat claggy and overly creamy, they were buttery and light. In thin rectangular layers, the garlic and smoked onion undertones were allowed to seep into every morsel.
Blackberries and red cabbage worked their usual magic whilst, although not tasting of much on its own beside a subtle sweetness, the finale of onion ash provided a charcoal emulsion that accentuated the deep earthiness and of the whole the dish.
For pudding, I chose the passion fruit brûlée served with mango salsa, coconut ice cream and garnished with crisp coconut flesh. After having experienced this dish at Chequers some months before, I was intrigued to see just how Leigh has matured in style and approach since taking the reins in the Combe Grove kitchen. The brûlée itself was gloriously tart hidden below a perfectly crisp burnt sugar lid. Whilst the coconut ice cream offered a sweeter balance and the crisps gave you that desired crunch, and again, distinct earthiness on the pallet.
What really shone through this dinner menu was an unbounded level of sophistication that was so enticingly twinned with a clever creativity. The result was that each and every dish told a clear story, took you to a particular time and a place. Each story playfully reflected your surroundings; be it the sober surrounding woodland, the traditional country house or the eccentric interior. Leigh is doing more than cooking, he is recounting tales through great plates, great produce and clearly a great kitchen team.
Breakfast the next morning was the cherry on top. Baked eggs in tomato, paprika and chorizo was an utter treat; a rich velvety sauce that had just the right amount of heat served as the perfect Sunday morning pick me up. Especially when followed by a massage in Combe Grove’s amazingly tranquil spa facilities before winding our way back down Brass Knocker Hill and on to home.
Combe Grove Manor is a wonderfully special place. Currently undergoing further renovations – both inside and out – and with a brand new spa, restaurant and cellar bar already in the pipeline, this really is one to watch for the future. I for one cannot wait to come back and see the Grove next summer and I would be very surprised if this extraordinary establishment isn’t on Bath’s hot list for 2017!
A little Tasty 