As fireworks illuminated Dartmouth’s harbour and Kingswear on the opposing bank of the Dart, William Blake’s Jerusalem blared out from speakers marking the end of Dartmouth Royal Regatta for another year.
Whilst entranced in this romantic scene you certainly couldn’t help feel a pang of stiff patriotism for this green and pleasant land. However, the spicy slow cooked goat curry and rice and peas accompaniment that I had secured myself from Fancy That Caribbean Catering only moments earlier certainly put up a hearty fight with this previous sentiment.
I know what you’re thinking, what was I doing in Devon, at Dartmouth’s fiercely traditional Regatta eating Jamaica’s national dish? Surely my taste bud’s time would have been better-spent sampling and savouring classic traditional dishes made with local produce to serve as the cherry – or Dittisham plum! – on top to perfect the Devonish experience? However, before you pass your judgements I think you should be introduced to this curry’s backstory:
Devon’s award winning Fancy That Caribbean Catering was established by Janice Voce and grew out of the back of a staunchly classical west country tea room in East Budleigh. It was here where Voce hosted the occasional Caribbean Evening for a local audience.
It was when this tea room closed that Janice, having an unrivalled passion for food, its producers and origins, decided that she would expand this small underground Caribbean night into a formal business. Janice delighted in telling me how she first concentrated on selling her delicious Caribbean food at markets, food fairs and festivals. It was later that she broke into occasion catering.
Today, Voce heads up an expert team of similarly passionate chefs and tours the country with her award winning street food. All recipes that Janice and her team uses are based on secret authentic family recipes and all food is handmade from the freshest local produce.
Although not traditional in the Devonish sense, how I see Fancy That is bringing something incredibly interesting to the table: authentic Jamaican and Caribbean cooking that celebrates, highlights and champions local produce and supports local farmers. It’s an exciting mash-up of cultures, people and traditions. The results? Not only award winning food but damn right tasty too…
Being fiery, rich and full of perfume whilst, at the same time, having a melt in the mouth texture that was so soft and buttery that the feeling that Fancy That’s goat curry imparted was one of warmth and pure happiness. I will hand on heart admit that this was one of the best curries I have had in a long old while! The rice and peas were the best companions imaginable in their aromatic, fresh and vibrant nature. I will definitely be keeping an eye out for Fancy That in the future, truly sublime.
Fancy That’s success in recent years can be in part associated with the simultaneous rise of street food. Previously, street food has been associated with greasy pre-game burgers and late night hangover aiding kebabs. However, today in 2016, street food represents a cultural switch and a sure sign that the British Food Revolution is in full swing.
This modern take on street food has resulted in the UK becoming suddenly awash with food festivals and pop-up markets that are bursting with unique and fantastically unique street stalls that sell anything and everything from macaroni cheese to bao buns and even – as we’ve seen above – to Jamaican cuisine. What each of these stalls does have in common is their passion for locally grown, authentic flavours and affordable prices.
Earlier in the day – or pre-goat curry – I was lucky enough to have also sampled a slow roasted beef and gravy bap with homemade horseradish from Burrow Farm Farm stall. This humble bap was a welcome alternative to the hog roast. For me, any farm food stall is a must; they are professionals in what they do, both raising, growing and preparing. They are also a fountain of knowledge and know everything you could possibly want to know about what you’re eating.
Our hunger for street food represents Britain’s growing passion for world flavours and experimental side of food. Street food is allowing us to sample delights that normally we perhaps wouldn’t. It’s a fun way to try new things and to get to know more about your food, where it’s from and who’s produced it.
If you find yourself in Dartmouth and looking for a foodie must look no further than Rockfish. Now operating in five different locations, Dartmouth was where it all began for this rustically perfect seafood group. Overlooking the spectacular river Dart, the location is certainly spot on for a fish restaurant. When you stumble across somewhere boasting the tagline “tomorrow’s fish are still in the sea,” and having a menu that changes numerous times a day – depending on the catch – you definitely know you’ve found somewhere special.
To start with we had Sprats with aioli and Scallops baked in parmesan, garlic, butter and parsley. Both dishes were exquisite and perfectly cooked and just enough to truly wet your appetite for the main event. For mains, we had battered Hake with homemade mushy peas and rough cut chips and whole baked Dover Sole. Each of these was beautifully light a flaky, whilst being rich and full of flavour all at once. But more than this, what they truly tasted of was the sea. Their freshness sang through and stole the show.
To accompany the above, I enjoyed a home brewed Rockfish special; Sea cider. It would have been rude not to have tried this brew, especially after reading that it is made with no less that fifteen different types of apples. To my utter delight, from tasting the sweet sparkling nectar, you really could taste each apple. The perfect partner to the beautiful fish.
Rockfish certainly delivered on flavour, service and experience. It was an excellent meal, and it really is no surprise that they have been nominated as the UK’s best independent fish and chip restaurant. If you find yourself slightly short of time – no fear! Rockfish also do an exceptional takeaway fish ‘n’ chip shop just a few streets apart.
I strongly believe that you cannot visit the West Country without a souvenir, and my go-to souvenir time and time again is fudge. Thus, our final stop before heading home before work on Monday was Edward’s Fudge Kitchen. On entering I was overwhelmed by the array of flavours – even including a marmite flavour, which even Edward himself advised against. It was reminiscent of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Edward manning the till himself and taking us through the range of choice and his reasoning and method behind creating each.
Being a traditional vanilla ice cream girl I left with Vanilla, Butterscotch and Sea-salt Caramel. Nevertheless, Edward wouldn’t have me going without a few free samples of his latest take on chocolate Oreo and Rum’n’Rasin. Both were surprisingly delicious!
Dartmouth, from a food point of view, is phenomenal. Whether you want local produce cooked traditionally or perhaps given a whole new life via a cultural crossover, then Dartmouth’s for you. With stunning views, a rich history, marvellous crabbing and fantastical pub locations, such at Bayards Cove Inn, you really won’t short of a thing to do or thing to taste.
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay The Royal Castle hotel has it all. Excellent location, a quirky fishing culture character, great food and friendly staff. Dartmouth, a wonderfully vibrant and traditionally modern foodie destination is certainly somewhere where I will be coming back too soon.
A little Tasty 